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WINNER OF THE STANFORD DOLMAN TRAVEL WRITING AWARD 2019 One third of the earth's land surface is desert, much of it desolate and inhospitable. What is it about this harsh environment that has captivated humankind throughout history? Travelling to five continents over three years, William Atkins discovers a realm that is as much internal as physical. From the contested borderlands of the USA to Australia's nuclear test zones, via Nevada's riotous Burning Man festival and the ancient monasteries of Egypt, he illuminates the people, history, nature and symbolism of these remarkable but often volatile places.
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As Atkins is drawn to spend time in deserts of the world, I was drawn to purchase this book (new, and at full price, which is rare for me (but I did have a voucher!)).
In this seven chapter book we accompany Atkins on his travels. He explains (to a varying degree in each chapter) the history of each place, about its pioneering explorers and native inhabitants, it geo-politics (to a small degree) and its current status. The possibilities for the future? - A little.
We commence in Oman, with the Empty Quarter, made famous by Thesiger and his adventures there described in Arabian Sands, although he didn't pioneer the crossing, there were others before him. Like all chapters, Atkins visits and makes a journey.
Australia's Great Victoria Desert is Atkins next stop. Here is located Emu Field Nuclear Test Site, and what must surely be an embarrassment to Australia (and Britain). As always seems to be the case, the test detonations didn't disburse as expected and radioactive contamination of the ground and everything on or in it occurred, including the Aboriginal settlement at Maralinga. It doesn't take much imagination to picture the long term effects for the people on whose tribal land the tests took place.
To China, and the Taklamakan Desert for the third chapter. Mildred Cable and Francesca French, Aurel Stein and Sven Hedin all feature in the history here. The story of the Mogao Caves (Cave of 1000 Buddhas) near Dunhuang is central here. Some of China's typical treatment of ethnic minorities is covered here, but not too in depth.
Kazakhstan's Aral Sea/Aralkum Desert is the location for the next chapter. An environmental disaster area now much more desert than sea, and how the people live with the loss of their livelihood. High intensity farming of cotton under soviet rule sucked the water from the land and the sea, leaving desert. Interestingly, construction of a dyke in 2005 has resulting in part of the sea collecting more water, and some of the fish species have reestablished. A quick google of “Aral Sea before and after” shows the scale here!
The next chapter takes us to the Sonoran Desert, between Mexico and the USA. This chapter largely examines the illegal immigrants chancing their lives to cross from Mexico to the USA - not only Mexicans, but a lot of people from Central America. Atkins interviews people from all sides of this issue. Surprisingly I found this one of the best chapters.
Again is the USA, chapter 6 takes us to Nevada and the Black Rock Desert, specifically for a visit to the Burning Man Festival. While this could have been an exploration into the crazy and debauched, it was more about the supervision and safety.
The final chapter examines Egypt's Eastern Desert, and his time at St Anthony's Coptic Orthodox Monastery. He shares the stories of some of the monks, his short time in the library, and various historical aspects and those who have written about it before. This chapter slowed the whole pace for me, and it crawled to an end.
Atkins writing is at its most interesting for me when he is describing those he meets and his interactions with them. I don't delight in his prose, or his descriptions of the desert as some other reviewers have, not sure why, as this book focuses on some really interesting places. I believe those he quotes or mentions do this better than in his own text.
This book didn't enthuse me the way I wanted it to. It somehow never built to a climax. I wanted a five star book, taking the best of each desert visited. For me it was at best a 3.5 star book, which I must round down to 3.