Mountains and a Shore: A Journey through Southern Turkey

In this book we accompany the author Micheal Pereira, an Englishman with fluent Turkish, on a journey of perhaps a few months along the Mediterranean coast of Turkey. The travel occurs in 1965, which is timely, or perhaps planned to occur just before the Turkish Government push to develop this coastline in promotion of tourism to the world. Pereira had travelled extensively in northern and central Turkey before, but had not visited the south, and was of fear of missing it before it evolved.

For the most part, the author avoids other tourists (but not exclusively), but engages readily with those who he meets in towns, villages and the countryside alike. He has an easy going manner which appeals to the Turks, always happy to share a cigarette and a few cups of tea or coffee. His travel is by local transport - buses, dolmus (shared cars or vans), even donkey at one point. He is also happy to walk at a slow pace, stay in mid quality accommodation and eat at mid quality cafe's and restaurants. In this way, he really sees the best of Turkey, engaging with the people who are most authentic, just living their lives.

I think it is reasonable to say that the pace of the book, like Pereira's travels, is sedate (other than a few bus and dolmus trips, where he obviously lacks control of the speed!). He travels in a measured way, stopping where he wants to stop, moving on when he is ready. In this way he doesn't miss out on anything, but is often found in a village where has seen all he needs and can relax for a half day until his next bus will arrive.

There is only one place he visits that I have been, which is Konya - a traditional city, known for its conservative religious views. I didn't spend more than a day or two there, visited a ceramics museum I believe, and moved on. So all of the area Pereira describes in new to me, and it sounds wonderfully laid back and picturesque - in 1965. Not sure how that tourism push worked out, but the same area in 2023 I would expect is vastly different.

By far the highlight seemed to be the town of Alanya with its magnificent 13th Century Red Tower (Kizilkule Fortress) and the 13th Century shipyard with massive docks covered with vaulted roofs of stone. Pereira's descriptions sounded amazing, and google shows they remain so.

My edition of this book contains an ok map of Southern Turkey, but unfortunately no photographs. He doesn't mention a camera or taking photos in the book, and his relaxed style of travel doesn't really align with photographing people or places, so this is perhaps understandable.

I own two more of Pereira's books, both on Turkey, so I look forward to those also.

4 stars