Chasing the Devil: The Search for Africa's Fighting Spirit

The premise of Tim Butcher's second book Chasing the Devil is following the route of Graham Greene and cousin Barbara Greene, as described in the classic Journey Without Maps.

Greene's journey took place in 1935, Tim Butcher's in 2009. The setting is West Africa - Sierra Leone, Guinea and Liberia. It was not Butchers first time in Sierra Leone or Liberia having spent time in both as a war correspondent / journalist, and the book is largely built on contrasts (or lack of contrasts) between the Greene's experience, Butchers's previous experience and the current journey.

The journey, undertaken with another young Englishman, David Poraj-Wilczynski, who happily sits in the background for the most part, and accompanied by two locals - Johnson Boie, guide and facilitator, and Mr Omaru, motorcycle transporter of the baggage. These two played a huge part of the success of the travel.

The books is rich is history, outlining the complex and often confusing history of each country particularly Sierra Leone and Liberia. In their most brief - Sierra Leone was formed by the British as a place to repatriate the freed slaves of Britain. Britain ruled as a colonial outpost, until it achieved independence in 1960. Self rule was relatively successful until the 1990s, where an ugly civil war in Liberia spilled over the border and overtook Sierra Leone.
Liberia was formed under similar circumstances, but by America. Rather than an assisted transition like Sierra Leone, in Liberia America simply transported the freed slaves off, and periodically provided money to assist their establishment. The government formed was primarily by the Americo-Liberians, who look whatever advantages over the other ethnic groups and at their worst, enslaving them. In 1980 a coup, followed by executions of those ousted, was followed by an election (deemed fraudulent internationally). By 1990, civil war was spilling into neighbouring Sierra Leone.

Chasing the Devil explains this history in a more fluent way, explaining some of Butchers experiences while reporting in the civil war, and weaving it with the explanations given by the Greene's some seventy years earlier. Despite there being roads available on the routes the Greene's had taken by foot, Butcher and his companions take the forest trails by foot, while Mr Omaru transports their packs.

The title of the book comes from the native poro bush society, which in its secretive way, controls the traditions and culture of the villages. The devils represent, not evil, as for a Christian expectation of the devil, but as a being of power of both benevolence and cruelty. The fantastically painted masks are the centrepiece of the devil costume, and tradition dictates that the devil stays anonymous. Sacrifices and other rituals still play their part.

Throughout the book we are also provided with more background on Graham Greene, and early on a more in depth reasoning why he undertook his original journey. Greene is a fascinating character, and an author I have read a lot. I read Journey Without Maps around 4 years ago, which was just before I started reviewing, which is a shame. I should also have followed up with this book a little closer to that reading, as it would have assisted in the links.

Overall a well woven tale, providing all that could be asked of Sierra Leone and Liberia by way of history and experience.

4 stars.