The Innocents Abroad

Mark Twain describes his travels on a luxury cruise that takes him and a couple hundred other Americans from New York across the Atlantic to the Azores, Gibraltar, Morocco, Marseille, Paris, much of Italy, Greece, Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, and Palestine in 1867. It is fascinating to hear about an American traveler's experience at such a time when the world was industrializing and probably already as different from the 18th century as it was different from our world in the 21st century today.

Twain takes in the hallowed sights and sites along the “grand tour” of Western Europe and the near Middle East with a wry and usually hilariously cynical skepticism. Rather than recount how extraordinarily beautiful the art of the old masters is, Twain instead typically comments on the way that tourists take in that art–almost always using the stock observations of the guidebooks. Twain never holds back and freely describes the uglier, chintzier, seedier, and more unpleasant experiences that a traveler would have faced, be they underhanded tour guides, fraudulent histories offered at sites, bad food, awful weather, shameful behavior from fellow American tourists, or otherwise.

This is the first pre 20th century travel writing that I have read, but I suspect that Twain's is among the most readable, in large part because he seeks to parody the stodgy cliches of other travel writing popular of the time. It offers a fascinating insight into the way people lived in urban and rural places from a perspective that is unique and historical, but familiar (as an American). This does not mean Twain's work is without fault. Despite many instances where Twain works to dispel prejudices (his preface even includes a famous epigraph about the power of travel to give one empathy and dispel racism), Twain expresses ugly attitudes towards “the Turk” and “Mohammedans”, perhaps consistent with his general anti-religious sentiments, but frustratingly ignorant nonetheless.

As I made my way through the pages of this book, I became more and more concerned. I reached about halfway, and we were still in France, having departed New York, visited the Azores, Gibraltar, Spain and undertaken a sidetrip to Tangier. As I reached the three quarter mark, and we were in Venice. I returned to the title pages, scouring for a clue as to my concern. Rechecking the published agenda of the steamship - yes, definitely a trip to the Holy Lands... Yes definitely a lot of Europe is listed, but, hell we are running out of pages!So despite no indication to suggest this was volume 1 of The Innocents Abroad, it does in fact end as we prepare to leave Pompeii.A little about this edition, which, despite being only half the book, is quite attractive. It is a 1910 hardcover edition with an embossed cover and spine, gold leaf on the spine. The embossed pattern is a geometric Art Nouveau pattern, and inside the cover is an amazing peacock artwork, also in Art Nouveau style with a boxed border. Part of The World Library, published by Ward Lock & Co.I have previously read an excerpt of this book, published as a Penguin Great Journeys book called [b:Can-Cans, Cats and Cities of Ash 954456 Can-Cans, Cats and Cities of Ash (Great Journeys) Mark Twain https://images.gr-assets.com/books/1348367671s/954456.jpg 1825237]. It was excellent, and having read the relevant sections of the full book now, can say the excerpts were very well selected, and it really did pick some of the best writing.As much as I enjoyed this book - and I did - the great writing, the relentless ridiculing of almost anything or anyone, the interesting side-stories, legends and local stories - what I was really looking forward to was the second part of the journey, beyond Europe. Greece, Turkey, Cyprus, Israel, Beirut, Jordan, Egypt, followed by returning again through Europe.Some quick google found a copy of the book I could download, so the second volume beckons, but it is likely to be a slow burner, as I dislike reading from the screen. Maybe I will print it out...Volume 1 - 4 stars.Review of Volume 2 HERE

More than satirical: deeply insightful. Twain had the gift of Beginner's Mind, seeing people and places without the prejudice of preconceptions. His takes on Europe, Renaissance art, religio-pilgrims, the Middle East, and human character are still relevant and powerful 150 years later.

Kind of spotty, but even so a beautiful work; doubly so when considering its context. This was groundbreaking work in its day, and is still a yardstick by which to measure any travelogue. And the “spotty” may be my fault: I don't know much about Jericho, Nazareth, Judea(), or any of those Jesusy places. A more educated reader might find great mirth in his treatment of the Holy Sepulchre, whatever that is; I just find heartbreak in how people do so much harm and destruction in the name of their myths.One surprise was learning that the Middle East was a festering shithole of ignorance and misery even back then. I can't figure out how I feel about that, what it says about our species and our future.Four-star Twain, but that's still five real-world stars.() Aside from the great rift between the Judean People's Front and the People's Front of Judea.

Uhh this took me forever to get through. I'm glad I read it. I totally buy into the afterword about how this was a turning point in the construction of the American identity. And it had some very funny lines about travel, and just interesting tidbits about tourism in the 19th century. But it was also a li'l bit offensive to my modern sensibilities! And it dragged. And was 500 pages long.