Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

For me, this was just OK. Finnegan tends to ramble on and on in this memoir. Heavily focused on his surfing life, he does a good job of explaining the technical details for non-surfers - but I still feel like I missed out since I'm not a hardcore surfer. A solid “meh” personally although I'm not surprised other people love it.

This was my first memoir in nearly a decade - I'm glad I branched out to a new genre, but I read this book based on a recommendation immediately after I mentioned “I like to read in my free time.” Clearly, that wasn't enough context for my tastes. :)